Silk Twill vs Crêpe de Chine vs Chiffon: Which Fabric for Your Custom Scarf?

Three fabrics. All silk. All from the same silkworm. And yet the finished scarf feels entirely different depending on which one you choose. This is the decision that most first-time custom clients wish they had understood better before production began.

Fabric choice is not simply a preference — it shapes the print, the drape, the wear, and the retail perception of the finished piece. A design that works beautifully on twill might lose something on chiffon. A painterly artwork that sings on crêpe de chine might feel slightly flat reproduced on twill. Understanding what each fabric does, and why, is what makes the choice obvious rather than arbitrary. If you are still deciding on your design approach, read our guide on designing for silk before committing to a fabric.

What is silk twill, and when is it the right choice?

Silk twill is woven in a diagonal pattern — the characteristic ribbing visible on the surface is the result of weft threads crossing multiple warp threads at an offset, creating a fabric that is denser, more structured, and more durable than a plain weave of the same weight. The diagonal weave gives twill its characteristic slight surface grip: when you tie a twill scarf, the knot stays where you put it. When you drape it, it holds its shape rather than collapsing.

At 14mm — the weight LS Silk NZ offers as standard — twill has the classic mid-weight hand associated with the heritage scarf houses. It is not rigid, but it has presence. It falls in clean folds, holds a hem beautifully, and accepts the hand-rolled finish with an especially good result. Read our guide to hand-rolled vs machine hem to understand why fabric weight affects hem quality.

For printing, twill’s relatively dense weave means that fine detail is reproduced with precision. Intricate patterns, sharp geometric designs, botanical illustrations with clean lines, architectural motifs — all of these translate onto twill with clarity and edge definition. Colour saturation is strong. Dark backgrounds appear rich.

This is the fabric that Hermès built its reputation on. For museum and gallery gift shops producing a retail product that will be handled repeatedly, gifted, worn, and kept, twill is usually the right answer.

What is silk crêpe de chine, and when is it the right choice?

Crêpe de chine — literally “fabric of China” in French — is produced using highly twisted yarns in both the warp and weft of a plain weave. The twist in the yarn creates a surface that is slightly crinkled at a microscopic level, giving the fabric its characteristic matte finish and subtly pebbled hand. Against the skin it feels cool and fluid, without the slight grip of twill.

At 14mm, crêpe de chine is lighter in feel than twill at the same weight. It drapes more fluidly, falls in softer folds, and moves more freely when worn. For printing, crêpe de chine is one of the most satisfying silk substrates. Its slightly textured surface absorbs acid dye with exceptional depth and evenness. Painterly artwork — ink-wash illustration, loose botanicals, watercolour-adjacent techniques — often looks its best on crêpe de chine.

What is silk chiffon, and when is it the right choice?

Chiffon is the lightest of the three fabrics and behaves differently from twill and crêpe de chine in almost every way. At 8mm — the standard weight — it is sheer, lightweight, and completely without structure. Against the light it is translucent, giving the printed design a quality that neither of the heavier fabrics can replicate.

For printing, chiffon requires a different approach to design. Because the base cloth is sheer, the printed design appears softened — colours read slightly lighter and more translucent. Artwork that naturally has a watercolour or ethereal quality translates onto chiffon with a visual softness that complements the fabric perfectly. To understand how momme weight interacts with print quality across all three fabrics, read our guide to momme weight.

One important technical note: there is no white ink in digital silk printing. On all three fabrics, white areas in the artwork print as the natural colour of the silk ground — a warm ivory.

How do the three fabrics compare side by side?

Twill at 14mm is the most structured, most durable, and most traditional of the three. It is the fabric of considered objects — pieces made to last and to be used regularly. Crêpe de chine at 14mm sits in the middle ground in the best possible sense — fluid where twill is firm, matte where twill has a subtle sheen, and more contemporary in feel. Chiffon at 8mm does something the others cannot. For the right project, it is the only choice.

What about mixing fabrics across a range?

For clients producing multiple designs, mixing fabrics within a range is completely workable in production. If you are uncertain which fabric is right for a specific design, this is worth raising at the brief stage. Our guide on how to brief a custom silk scarf project covers how to approach this conversation.

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The most common outcome of the fabric conversation is that clients have a clearer answer than they expected once they understand what each choice actually involves.

Talk to us about your fabric options →

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between silk twill and silk crêpe de chine for scarves?
Silk twill has a diagonal weave that gives it structure, surface grip, and durability. It is the classic choice for heritage-style scarves. Silk crêpe de chine has a plain weave with highly twisted yarns that give it a fluid drape and matte finish, better suited to softer, more contemporary designs.

What is silk chiffon used for in custom scarves?
Silk chiffon at 8mm is lightweight, sheer, and completely fluid. Best suited to designs with a watercolour, painterly, or ethereal quality, seasonal products, and artist merchandise where the delicacy of the fabric is part of the aesthetic.

Which silk fabric is best for printing detailed designs?
Silk twill at 14mm gives the sharpest reproduction of fine detail. Crêpe de chine also handles detail well and excels with gradients and softer brushwork. Chiffon is better suited to designs where some softness in the print is desirable.

Does the fabric type affect the price of a custom silk scarf?
Yes. Silk chiffon at 8mm is less expensive per metre than twill or crêpe de chine at 14mm. The fabric cost is one of five variables that affect the total per-unit price alongside size, quantity, hem finish, and sampling.

Which silk fabric does Hermès use for its scarves?
Hermès uses silk twill for its signature carré scarves. The classic weight sits in the 12–16mm momme range, chosen to balance print precision with the structured drape the carré is known for.

Related reading: The complete guide to ordering custom silk scarves in New Zealand · Understanding momme weight · Designing for silk: screen vs fabric · Hand-rolled vs machine hem